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DMM Alloy Offset - Size 9

DMM Alloy Offset - Size 9

This classic nut design, originally made by HB Climbing and re-launched by DMM, was designed by Hu...

Best current price£15.49from Nevisport

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NevisportDmm Unisex Assorted Alloy Offsets Gold 7
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TisoDMM Alloy Offset - Protective Gear - Black - Size 7 - Unisex
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Product Information

Full details

The DMM Alloy Offset - Size 9 is designed for climbers seeking reliable protection in flared cracks. Its unique offset shape offers superior security where standard nuts may struggle, providing a crucial backup for essential gear. While highly effective in specific placements, its specialized design means it may not be the first choice for perfectly parallel cracks.

All features

Model Part NumberAlloy Offset 9
BrandDMM

Extended Product Information

FAQs

What makes the DMM Alloy Offset different from a standard nut?

The DMM Alloy Offset has a non-parallel, tapered shape designed specifically to fit securely into slightly flared cracks, where standard straight-sided nuts may not seat well.

What is the strength rating of the Size 9 Alloy Offset?

The DMM Alloy Offset - Size 9 has a strength rating of 12kN.

How much does the Size 9 Alloy Offset weigh?

The DMM Alloy Offset - Size 9 weighs 37g.

Is the red color just for aesthetics?

No, the red color is a practical color-coding system to quickly identify the Size 9 Alloy Offset on your rack.

Can I use this in bomber parallel cracks?

While it might hold in some parallel cracks, its optimal performance is in flared placements. For perfectly parallel cracks, standard nuts are generally more effective.

What does 'recessed wire' mean for protection?

The wire is embedded into the aluminum body with a rounded profile. This prevents the wire from snagging or being abraded easily against the rock, increasing its durability and strength.

Where did the original design come from?

The Alloy Offset design was originally made by HB Climbing and was designed by Hugh Banner.

Troubleshooting

Nut feels loose in a parallel-sided crack

This is expected. The Alloy Offset is designed for flared cracks. Try using a standard nut or a different placement.

Wire seems stiff or difficult to move

Gently work the wire back and forth. If stiffness persists and is not due to debris, consider if the wire might be bent or damaged. Clean thoroughly.

Difficulty seating the nut securely

Ensure the wider end of the offset is placed deeper into the flare. Experiment with different orientations within the crack.

Pros and Cons

Pros

  • Excellent security in flared cracks.
  • Lightweight for its size and strength.
  • Durable construction with recessed wire.
  • Easy to identify with color coding.
  • Reliable backup for standard nut placements.

Cons

  • Less effective in perfectly parallel cracks compared to standard nuts.
  • Specialized design may require more experience to place optimally.
  • Only one size available in this specific product listing; a full set is recommended for versatility.

Setup, Compatibility & Care Instructions

Setup:

  1. Inspect the nut and its wire for any signs of damage before each use. Ensure the wire is securely attached to the aluminum.
  2. Identify a suitable placement, ideally a slightly flared crack.
  3. Gently insert the offset nut into the crack, ensuring the wider end is deeper in the crack.
  4. Test the placement by pulling gently in the direction of a potential fall to confirm stability.

Compatibility:

  • Compatible with standard climbing harnesses and protection loops.
  • Designed to work with natural rock features, particularly flared cracks.
  • Can be used alongside other passive protection like nuts and hexes.

Care:

  • After use, clean off any dirt or mud with a damp cloth. Avoid using harsh chemicals.
  • Store the nut in a dry place, away from direct sunlight and extreme temperatures.
  • Periodically check the wire and aluminum for wear or damage. If significant wear is observed, retire the piece.
  • Ensure the wire moves freely but is not excessively loose.

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